Monastery owner prays for Tuscany sale
Adam Pollock never set out to buy a 20 bedroom former monastery in Italy but as a fashionable interior designer based in London in the swinging sixties he was better able than most to see the potential of a large living space. So when he bought Santa Croce, a 17th century property in The Maremma, south-west Tuscany, complete with olive groves, arcaded cloisters and its own church, he also knew just how much work he was taking on.
Adam's life in London in the 1960s was spent at the centre of the international art and design world. He was responsible for designing London hotspots such as Wiltons Restaurant in Mayfair and Annabel's Nightclub and also worked as a theatre designer. His friends included artist David Hockney - who painted his portrait twice - and fashion designer Ossie Clark. Despite this glamorous lifestyle Adam wanted to step off the treadmill and create a quieter, less hectic life. Italy was his first choice. But why did he take on such a huge challenge?
"I suppose it was a case of the classic Englishman in Tuscany," says Adam. "I love ruins and always wanted to find a beautiful old building. I spent a summer in Lazio house hunting and also had Italian friends who lived in The Maremma. This property was not quite what I had been looking for but it was architecturally interesting and had a good view of the Mediterranean."
Santa Croce is set on a hill outside the medieval village of Batignano in the Tuscan region of Grosseto. It looks down on the Ligurian Sea with the nearest beach a 20 minute drive away. Access is easy with both Rome and Pisa around 90 minutes away and picturesque Chianti is nearby, between Florence and Siena.
Buying a property in Italy 40 years ago was not at all straightforward. "There were no estate agents in the area then," says Adam. "So finding property for sale was difficult. Santa Croce belonged to 14 different people and it was hard to get them all to agree to sell. I was lucky to have a very good lawyer and also I spoke Italian. The situation is very different now. Friends who have bought in this area recently have found it fairly easy."
Certain difficulties remain. Even though there are now plenty of estate agents in Tuscany, finding a property can be time consuming, involving a lot of travelling around to discover just where you want to live. Prices differ hugely between regions with Tuscany and neighbouring Umbria substantially more expensive than Le Marche and Abruzzo for example.
"And because of Italian inheritance laws, buildings can still belong to several people, perhaps cousins who hardly know each other," says Adam. "A good lawyer is important and preferably one who can speak your language."
Other tips for buyers include checking there are no outstanding mortgages or debts on the property and making sure that you have rights to water. "This is a top priority," says Adam. "Remember that even the estate agents may not be aware of any hidden problems."
And what about that infamous Italian bureaucracy? "It's a nightmare," admits Adam. Santa Croce is registered as a national monument by the Belle Arte (Fine Arts Commission), which means that though there are certain tax advantages, the main part of the building cannot be radically altered.
"The various by-laws about building regulations may make you despair," adds Adam. "There are plenty of builders, plumbers and other craftsmen in the area but you need to get them on board and become friends, drink with them in the local bar and ask about their families. I would recommend anyone who is thinking of taking on a big restoration to live in the area for a few months and get to know the people. It's no good giving a few orders and disappearing back to the UK."
There's no doubt for Adam though that the pleasures of the Italian lifestyle easily make up for these problems. "Italy has wonderful weather, beautiful buildings, historical splendours and welcoming and friendly people with a real enjoyment of life. A great motto here is 'Why not?' rather than the more British attitude of 'Why?'."
Adam certainly needed a why not approach to his new home. Originally built as a monastery to house 20 monks - hence all those bedrooms - by order of Cristina, Grand Duchess of Tuscany in 1621, it has also served as a plate glass works, a fattoria or agricultural centre and as a haven for one hundred refugees at the end of World War II.
By the time Adam bought it there was neither electricity nor running water. The roof needed replacing, the bell tower had lost its upper stories and there were no windows or doors. He set about returning the building as near as possible to its original state, putting in vaulted ceilings, adding mains water and electricity and repairing areas of precious frescos, all while running a small farm.
He also found time to establish the Batignano Opera Festival, a project that he began in 1974 with a few friends and which ended up as an annual summer event that ran for 20 years. Helped by a grant from the local mayor and inspired by Adam's enthusiasm, the festival was held in the cloisters of Santa Croce and became well known for attracting exciting young talent. It launched the career of British soprano Lesley Garrett and featured international stars such as Jane Glover and director Graham Vick.
After nearly 40 years in Italy Adam has put Santa Croce back on the market and plans to return to London. "This is a wonderful building but it's large," says Adam. "Now I am of a certain age I think it needs someone younger to look after it."
Santa Croce is on sale for €3.75m and Adam hopes its next owner will share his love of its history. There is certainly room to stamp your own mark on the property: Santa Croce has a large, roofless barn ready for conversion, a garden in need of constant tending and that imposing, handsome main building to preserve for another four centuries.
June 2007
Cathy Hawker is a freelance property writer who contributes regularly to The Evening Standard and BBC Good Homes Magazine.
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